This time we will finish adjusting the standard block to our personal measurements. We will draw new armscyes, darts and adjust hip line.
Previous posts on this subject are:
- Necessary measurements
- Width of construction and its parts
- Front and back width, shoulders, back and bust dart
I have also added a video at the end of this post.
Armscyes
Find a point between front and back waist levels at the side seam ( provided they are different, which is very likely they are ) and mark a a point.
From this point up measure
Side length – 2 cm
This will be your depth of the armscye point.
This level can also be measured from Neck base point on the back half . From neck base point measure down
Back armscye depth + 2 cm
These two measurements should give you the same point ( ideally ). If they do not, get the average between the two.
Now use the points you found earlier to draw new armscyes. You will need shoulder points ( back and front ) and depth of the armscye point. Back and chest widths define the width of your armscye, so don’t let your armscye lines to go beyond them.
Draw an armscye using your blocks’ armscyes and even out the lines using french curve.
Waist
Drop waist level at CF by 1 cm ( this is the back waistline extended to CF ) and draw a curved line.
On this line mark front dart width ( make sure your dart legs are equal ), side dart and back dart. Draw front and back darts.
To draw side dart you must first calculate your hip line length.
Hips
Measure
Half hip + hip ease from CF along hip line
Half of this length goes to front and half to the back ( measure it from CF and CB respectively ) . You might get an overlap or a gap between the lines depending on your hip measurement.
And this is it, now, it wasn’t that hard, wasn’t it? :)
Your block is now ready for a muslin fitting.
Here is what my actual block ( not the half size ) looks like adjusted. Standard is in red, adjustment is in blue, fitting is in green. More about the muslin fitting in my next post.
So how did you go, have you discovered any interesting facts about your figure as you were adjusting your block? :)
